Photo by Seatech Marine

What is an anode?

An anode is a sacrificial block made of either zinc or aluminum alloy that is mounted on, or connected to, the underwater metal parts of your boat, such as stern drives, shafts, propellers, rudders, trim tabs and skin fittings. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes.

What do anodes do?
Anodes are designed to sacrifice themselves by depleting first, rather than the expensive parts of your drive or underwater metal fittings. Stern drives, underwater propulsion gear and hull fittings are made up of two or more types of metal. Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical reaction between two or more different (or dissimilar) metals submerged in seawater. Anodes connected to these metals are more galvanically active and will corrode before the vital parts of your vessel.

Are your anodes corroding as they should?
Vessel owners need to be aware of the location and condition of sacrificial anodes mounted on their boat. Many owners do not realise the corrosion damage that can occur to stern drives and underwater metal fittings if anodes are not regularly maintained or replaced.

Why is it critical to check and maintain anodes?
Generally, sacrificial anodes need to be replaced when they are 50% consumed. Correct corrosion protection to vital boat parts is not achieved if anodes are left to deplete below 50%. Usually, the size and amount of anodes installed to each moored vessel are designed to last up to 12 months. However, many factors can contribute to anodes depleting at a faster rate, including water temperature, salinity, water current flow, stray electrical current, and vessel or jetty wiring faults. Therefore, checks are often required monthly, quarterly or six-monthly to determine the depletion rates of sacrificial anodes.

Any other advice?
Upon purchasing your vessel, check the condition of anodes and for other signs of corrosion as soon as possible. Obtain maintenance history to determine when the anodes were last replaced. Ensure that your vessel and jetty electrical systems are in good order.
Consult your local vessel and engine/drive package dealer for specific requirements.

By Shane Subichin

Shane is the general manager of The Boat Works. He has over 25 years of technical experience in the marine industry, and is the only Certified Service Managers (CSM) in Australia.

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Note: This is a general guide only. If you would like personalised advice regarding anodes, contact Shane on 07 5500 0000. He will help you and/or direct you to a professional team onsite for further action. It is recommended you contact your local boat or engine service dealer for specific requirements for each vessel and engine/drive package.

The post All About Anodes appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

What is your yacht design history?

I started immediately in this field with Oceanic Yacht Design on the Gold Coast. First day on the job was working on a 100ft Azzura motor yacht. Never looked back. Then, on to Tony Castro Yacht Design, Oceanfast and Austal ships. There is a pattern there: design office, design office, shipyard and shipyard. The shipyard teaches you how to design better.

When I started my degree in naval architecture, superyacht design was what I was aiming for. I suppose it is the creative nature of the beast. Interiors and exteriors and even the technical have a certain charm when applied to a superyacht. It is the ultimate way to create a vision.

Salvatori said, “Perfect engineering does not imply good design.” True?

Engineers are rewarded for reaching the desired technical outcome. Designers are rewarded for achieving the desired aesthetic and functional outcome. The scopes or aims sometimes do not align with one another across the disciplines. That is why you need project managers!

What is the most appealing to prospective yacht owners?

Some owners like an adventurous design, and I hope I bring that to each project.

How much of your knowledge involves an understanding of ergonomics and history?

Quite a bit. History helps with context. Ergonomics, well it’s everything!

Digital programs used?

AutoCAD, Rhino, Maxsurf, Alias, Photoshop, rendering software. And not to forget the pencil! You can communicate a lot with a pencil sketch.

As a designer, what is most important to you?

Experience helps your process and focus. Style and finesse takes time to develop but can be evident in shimmers early on I’m told by the great designers.

Does a designer need experience in boat repairs and boat-building?

I think so. I have met a lot of star designers, like Espen Oeino, Tim Heywood, Andrew Winch and Terrence Disdale, to name a few. And the common advice has been that talent is good but you do also need to learn how to get things built.

What is your boating lifestyle?

Every chance I get, I am out on the water. I’m also always out with clients, builders, et al. It is very important to my life and career. I can’t go a few days without seeing the water.

The future of yacht designing in Australia?

Queensland and Western Australia have become attractive places to bring projects for new build, refit, and repair. If the projects continue to grow in Australia, so will the need for designers. In my line of business, designing for the 40-300ft boats is indispensable to construction, quoting and tendering.

Queensland is a hub for recreational boats. I think its waterways, weather, and natural attractions are key. The marine industry based here is quite mature. So combine that with deep waterways and the Queensland attractions, it is a recipe for success.

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The “Battlewagon”

The concept

This design has been short-listed for a yacht design award in the under 40-metre category. The feature I focused on was the exterior styling, specifically a more customized approach. Rather than mimic competitors, I go for a fresh look and achieve a vessel that says what it does. The lines and styling of the vessel can be described as aggressive, purposeful, adventurous, and lots of glass. Its unique features include the hull form to allow better low speed cruising efficiency, the usage of glass on a vessel this size, a generous forward lounge. Its appearance is innovative. I have had many applaud the wild nature of the design, considering low speed cruising as an important operational profile. I hope Battlewagon would be built. The design is scalable so in essence can be applied to a smaller or larger vessel.

The fixed furniture are positioned in the area exposed to the weather. Won’t there be higher maintenance requirements in the future?

Good question. Furniture covers would achieve this. The backrests collapse down to make this easier. You see covers often on aft deck furniture and forward sun beds etc. The forward area is primarily for fair weather cruising — the best seat in the house, so to speak, when steaming at five knots, no wind, summer weather, down a river at sunset. Magic!

/Sep-Dec2017

The post Thoughts of a Yacht Designer appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

One of the most important items on your maintenance schedule should be to check the wheel bearings. These bearings should be changed if the wheel does not spin freely when jacked up or if undue noise is heard from the wheel. Bearings are comprised of a cup pressed into the hub and the cone, which contains the bearing rollers. When inspecting the cone, look for signs of wear, pits, chips, or discolouration of the rollers. Inspect the cup for wear, damage or scoring marks. If any damage is found, the bearings should be replaced. In an emergency, you can remove the cone and replace it with a new one with a screwdriver.

While replacing a wheel bearing may seem an intimidating task, following these 10 steps will help you become an expert.

Step 1

Take off the wheel and hub. Remove the tyre and wheel from the trailer, and use a flathead screwdriver to remove the grease cap by prying it off in a circular motion.

Step 2

Remove the castle nut on the spindle. The castle nut should be visible after removing the grease cap. Wipe the extra grease off the nut, and then look for a “tab” (one of the castle nut notches). Push the tab back toward the spindle with your screwdriver. You may also see a “cage” surrounding the nut, which can easily be pried away in a circular motion using your screwdriver.

Step 3

Remove the hub. Use a paper towel to hold in the outer bearing as you pull off the hub. If the hub is stuck, rock it in a circular motion to help it slide off. If the bearing is frozen to the spindle, you will need to knock off the hub with some force. Remember, even the smallest of nicks can wear out the bearings and their seals very quickly. If there are nicks in the spindle where the bearings and seal sit, consider replacing the spindle or the entire trailer axle.

Step 4

Once removed, disassemble the hub. First, remove the outer bearing by pulling out the outer bearing and spindle washer, and set it aside. Then, remove the inner bearing and seal. Place the hub on a cinder block, with the wheel studs facing up, and place a 2.5cm wooden dowel to knock out the bearing.

Step 5

Clean and inspect the bearings, looking for nicks and dents in the roller cage. If you see these problems, or lines, spots or discolouration of metal, discard the bearings. If everything passes inspection, clean out and dry the bearings.

Step 6

Check the seal. If the seal is no longer round, or the rubber looks dry rotted, the seal should be replaced. Sometimes, removing the grease seal from the hub causes enough damage to require its replacement.

Step 7

Repack the trailer bearings with grease. Ensure that you fill every space of the bearing. To repack the bearings by hand, place a gob of grease in your palm and press the bearing into the grease with force.

Step 8

Insert the inner bearing and seal by turning the hub over so the front sides of the wheel studs face down. Place the inner bearing in the hub and install the seal on top. Tap the seal in a circular motion until it sits flush. Then, apply a thin layer of grease to the spindle, and slide on the hub.

Step 9

Insert the outer bearing and seal by sliding it in while rocking the hub back and forth until the bearing is seated soundly.

Step 10

Install the castle nut, by tightening it until it stops or becomes snug. Rock the hub and push in to ensure the hub is properly seated onto the spindle. Then, tighten the castle nut as needed.

Swiftco Trailers offer a FREE TRAILER SAFETY CHECK at any of our four locations. This free service is open to all makes and models of trailers and includes the check of bearings, brakes and general condition.

Swiftco Trailers also have a spare parts division where you can source all spare parts including all hubs, bearings, discs, suspension kits/parts, brake kits/parts, guards, winches, couplings, lights, axles, boat rollers and all fittings.

www.swiftcotrailerparts.com.au

/Sep-Dec2017

The post 10 Steps to Replace Trailer Wheel Bearings appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

Basic Flotation

(www.anzsbeg.com.au)

Basic flotation requires a boat to float in some form if swamped, and allows you to possibly cling to the upturned hull. The boat can be in any position as long as it floats within 15cm of the surface. This is safer if a lifejacket was being worn, but does not reduce the risks associated with predators such as sharks and crocodiles, or hypothermia in colder waters.

Level Flotation

(www.anzsbeg.com.au)

Level flotation requires a boat to float in a level position if swamped and is prevented from capsizing in calm water. Occupants can remain in the boat and bail the vessel. It provides more opportunity to put a lifejacket on, to call for assistance and would also reduce the risk of exposure to predators and the elements.

Many recreational boats only have basic flotation, often achieved by placing polystyrene under seats. Some boats display both basic and level flotation on their ABP, but reduce the number of occupants with level flotation. Other boats achieve level flotation and are virtually unsinkable. This certainly does not include inflatable boats.

Since July 2013, all commercial boats, including hire boats and those belonging to sailing clubs must achieve level flotation. All inflatables are assessed with at least the two largest air compartments deflated. The material used to provide buoyancy is a closed-cell foam, such as polyethylene, polypropylene, and polyurethane. Polystyrene does not meet the flotation standard. Foam buoyancy is required in all inflatable boats, and their air chambers are not considered to be equivalent to foam buoyancy.

Boating consumers, especially those without experience, would be significantly safer if all recreational boats were required to achieve level flotation.

Polyethylene is inherently buoyant and will float regardless of shape. Fibreglass and aluminium are denser than water and will sink unless they trap air within their form or in the foam they contain.

Polyethylene boats, such Mac Boats, have polyurethane foam to provide additional buoyancy and achieve level flotation with ease. A commercial operator recently stated that his dinghy, which had rated capacity of 250kg, had over 800kg of lead on board, and still floated when towed in the port. To demonstrate their buoyancy, polyethylene boats still float when cut in half, something that would not occur in fibreglass, aluminium boats, or inflatable boats.

Mac boats have a double skin, unlike fibreglass, aluminium and some plastic boats, which provides a double barrier. This is important in very cold waters and when near large predators, especially if the outer barrier is penetrated.

Polyethylene has five times the impact resistance of fibreglass, and is less likely to be damaged by rocks or coral. They will not be damaged, like inflatable boats, when mouthed by crocodiles. Polyethylene will not abrade fibreglass and makes an indestructible tender for larger craft.

Mac Boats are available at Me Tender Boats, 8 Waterway Drive in the Coomera Marine Precinct. For more information, go to www.metender.com.au, email boats@metender.com.au, or call 0422 750 100.

The post What Floats Your Boat appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

There is often limited space available on boats, so functionality is key. Boat owners must ask themselves how they wish to use the space, how many people will be using the area, and what they want as a theme. We usually suggest to clients that they keep the overall palette fairly neutral, and add colour in soft furnishings, particularly with the interior. The exterior furnishings will often be driven by the colours used in canvas covers.

SPACE ADAPTABILITY. With space at a premium on a boat, adaptability of the designed area is very important. For instance, a dropdown table next to the lounge setting with an infill cushion can become another bed, or custom ottomans can be used both as storage and seating, or mesh screening on a flybridge can make a nice area for entertaining without baking in the sun. Areas on a boat need to be flexible, and are generally used for a multitude of purposes.

CARPETS AND FLOORS

When considering carpets and flooring, how you use your boat is critical to this decision. If you go out with the family and stay on the boat, chances are you will want the comfort of a carpet when getting out of bed in the morning. If you take your mates out fishing, you are going to want flooring that will take people tracking fish guts through your saloon! When choosing a carpet, make sure it is totally synthetic and has stain protection built into the fibres. Rugs on a boat can move around a lot and be a slip issue, so make sure if you choose a rug that it has a non-slip backing or you can get one put on it. Stay away from wool rugs – they don’t smell nice when wet.

BEDDINGS AND BUNKS

How you use your boat is important when contemplating changes to bedding and bunks. If you do sleep onboard regularly, you will want a mattress that is as good as your one at home – even oddly shaped beds can have inner spring mattresses custom made. If yours is more of a day boat, you might just want foam with a water resistant fabric to cover it, so if anyone throws wet towels on the bed, or wants to lie down with wet hair, you will not worry about it.

The odd sizes and lack of maneuvering space can be a real challenge when making beds on a boat. However, custom-made fitted sheets and bedspreads really take a lot of the hassle out of this task. Make sure the bedspread, once made, can be slept under, as storage is often an issue on a boat. Keep that in mind when choosing cushions, too; you have to have somewhere to store them when you go to bed.

If you are changing the bed set-up, consider making the space underneath the bed into storage with either gas lift struts to lift up the whole bed base, or by installing drawers.

LOUNGES AND SEATS

Comfort and cleaning are the two main things you need to consider when making changes to lounges and seats. Good quality foams and materials, which are easy to clean and are not likely to hold stains, are essential. If you are changing the actual lounge carcass, think about incorporating drawers or storage under the seat cushions, or how to make the lounge into a pullout bed. Also, consider rub rates for materials – the likelihood of sand coming in contact with your lounge is highly likely and is quite abrasive, especially when people have to skirt around a fixed table to sit down.

For more storage space, consider ottomans with storage inside that can be made to take wine bottles while doubling as extra seating in a saloon area.

BATHROOMS

When considering a bathroom makeover, try to keep the colours light and neutral. Bathrooms on boats are usually small spaces, so light and bright, and easy to clean are key design ideas. Choose materials that are marine-grade, including 316 stainless steel fixtures and fittings, where possible. You can add colour to your bathroom with shower curtains, towels, bath mats, and soaps. Try to make sure there are no sharp edges, and put as much storage space as possible.

KIDS AREA

If you are decorating an area for young children, be practical by making sure there are no sharp corners or edges in the space that kids could fall against if there is a bit of a swell. It is important to make sure anything you install in this area is easy to clean. Colourful bedding will make for an inviting space.

PROFESSIONAL DESIGNERS

There are aspects of interior design that can be undertaken by the boat owner. But aspects that require large-scale design alterations should be entrusted to an expert. Deciding on a new material to re-cover your saloon lounge is one thing, but doing that in conjunction with new bedding, curtains and carpets, is another. The more you want changed on your boat, the more you need expert advice to make sure it all combines successfully and contributes to increasing the value of your vessel.

Choosing the right interior designer for your boat is very important. Look for someone that you are comfortable with, and that you feel takes on board your personal wants and needs. After all, the only person who knows how you use your boat is yourself, and the design should reflect your personality and what your boat means to you.

Done well, an interior makeover will not only increase the value of your boat but make it easier to sell, too. Buyers can easily be put off by shabby lounges and disintegrating curtains, especially if they are not seasoned boaties, and are not sure of the costs of replacement or refurbishment. If you are looking to sell in the foreseeable future, try to be budget-conscious, and make improvements to things that have the biggest impact on the look of your boat.

The second part of this series will be published in the Jan-Mar 2018 print edition.

Interview by Andy Kancachian

/Sep-Dec2017

The post Designing Boat Interiors appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

In this interview with Nicholas J Lockyer, an accredited yacht and small ship surveyor, he explains the basics and benefits of a professional marine survey for either the owner or the prospective buyer.

When should one hire a marine surveyor?

As soon as you decide to make an offer or go to contract, a marine surveyor should be engaged and any offer should be made ‘subject to a satisfactory survey’. You should only engage surveyors who are members of the Marine Surveyors Association or the International Institute of Marine Surveying (IIMS), as members are vetted for knowledge, experience and competency. There are courses conducted by the IIMS and some specialist surveying courses in Launceston, but these are generally for larger ships and cargo.

It is advised that before engaging a surveyor, ask the seller when the engine(s) was last serviced and collect paperwork verifying maintenance records and servicing for machinery, rigging, sails and electronics.

Who must commission the surveyor?

In most cases, the survey is commissioned by the intending purchaser if it is a pre-purchase report, or by the owner if it is for insurance renewal. On some occasions, the owner of a boat may commission a report prior to going to the market so he is aware of any issues that might affect the sale.

What are the benefits of a professional marine survey?

Just as an RACQ inspection of a second-hand vehicle provides you with an independent report, a professional marine survey is essential. Unlike motor vehicles, every boat is very different. A third-party unbiased inspection will provide the facts to allow a considered opinion.

How should the client prepare for the survey?

Clean the boat thoroughly and remove all personal and extraneous items so the surveyor can make a thorough inspection.

What is included in the inspection?

A professional surveyor will inspect all aspects of the boat that he can access without destructive testing or the removal of fixed parts. Some surveyors may specialise in doing just mechanical or electrical inspections, and some will do the ‘whole of ship’.

The time needed to conduct a marine survey depends on many factors. Even smaller boats can sometimes take as long as a vessel twice its size, as it may have more complex systems or can be more difficult to access. Generally, it will take a full day to inspect and report on a typical 40’ yacht or powerboat.

Most surveyors prefer to undertake their work unhindered. They meet with their client towards the end so a synopsis of their findings can be given, rather than providing a running commentary, which can complicate and extend the surveyors work. The professional surveyor will ask many questions in order to determine past use and operation, which will have a profound effect on the current condition.

Is there a survey report?

Most professional surveyors will email a secure report in PDF format which is preferred by most banks, and insurance companies. Reports are prepared for the party that commissions them, but remains the property of the surveyor. Survey reports for some inspections done for pre-auction or pre-sales use can be prepared and issued to multiple parties, but only with the consent of the surveyor who holds the copyright. A professional surveyor should only discuss his findings with the instructing party, unless instructed otherwise.

Will the surveyor inspect any repairs undertaken because of the survey?

It is not uncommon for the surveyor to inspect any repairs identified in his inspection so that the report can be re-issued without a list of defects that are no longer evident.

Should a buyer fear the list of problems with a used boat?

Not necessarily. Every boat, even a new one can have issues that need to be considered. Not having all the facts is what is most to be feared. Always seek professional advice before you make a decision. If you are unsure, ask questions.

Does the marine survey usually give the buyer advice to buy or not to buy?

A professional surveyor should only ever provide information to the client so he or she can make a decision based on all relevant facts.

Do surveyors determine the value of the boat?

Surveyors should only include a valuation statement if they are competent to do so, and only if requested, and for an additional fee. Most surveyors will avoid doing valuations, as this is a specialist’s field.

How are fees charged?

Surveyors fees vary but most are based on a per-linear-foot basis or a formula based on length x width. If the job is complex and involves travel the fees may be charged on a per day basis. Professional fees are similar to those charged by accountants and lawyers.

What are common problems of boats?

• Most of the problems found in used boats occur as a result of lack of use and maintenance rather than over-use.

• Osmotic blistering can be found just after the vessel is lifted and washed and is more prevalent in boats built prior to 1990. However, just because the boat has some blistering does not mean it has structural issues and should not be the only reason for not buying a boat.

• Because most fibreglass boats use a polyester resin matrix (which is brittle), cracking is the most common issue.

• Galvanic corrosion describes the wasting of a metal that gives up its electrons to protect a more ‘noble’ metal. Gold sits at the top of the Scale of Nobility while zinc is almost at the bottom, so zinc is used as a sacrificial anode to protect bronze, stainless steel and other alloys that sit above it on the scale. (Electrolysis, on the other hand, refers to impressed current breaking down compounds, such as water turning to hydrogen and oxygen.)

• Paint adhesion issues are common and caused by poultice and galvanic corrosion because of poor preparation prior to painting or design/construction shortcomings by using dissimilar metals in close proximity.

Nicholas J. Lockyer is an accredited class 1A yacht and small ship surveyor (up to 40 metres). He is with the Marine Surveyors Association (Australia) and an associate member of the International Institute of Marine Surveying.

Editorial by Andy Kancachian

(May-Aug2017)

The post Don’t Buy A Lemon appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

Gobius is very easy to install, and is most often done in just a few minutes. Because Gobius is installed on the side of the tank, this means the tank can be any shape and size, and it will still produce a true reading. Because Gobius measures from the outside, this means you will never need to clean your level kit again. This is great news for blackwater tanks, but will work for all tanks and liquids.

Gobius sensor technology is best described as “knock and listen”. The Gobius sensor consists of a shaker that creates a vibration on the inside of the tank wall. This then sends the signal to an accelerometer, which measures the vibration. The data is then passed to the control module, which calculates the level and shows a reading from empty, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 to full. This makes it possible to measure the level of any tank, size, liquid or shape. With only one moving part, this makes Gobius a very reliable product.

Gobius is easily installed and will work through Polypropylene 2mm-10mm, Polyethylene 2mm-10mm, Stainless Steel 1mm-3mm, Aluminium 2mm-5mm, Standard Steel 1mm-3mm, and Fibreglass 4mm-8mm, no matter the condition inside the tank. This makes Gobius perfect for sewage tanks, but built for any liquid and tank.

Gobius fuel, water and waste level kits have an additional analogue output so they will connect to your current gauge: VDO, Wema, Teleflex, Faria, Phillippi etc. Any gauge with the ohm range of 10-180ohm, 240-33ohm, and 4-20ohm. Gobius will also interface with NMEA2000, Mercury Vessel View, and other digital computerised displays.

A Gobius Plus version is also available. This is the same as the standard Gobius unit but with the added feature of being able to turn pumps on or off when a level of empty or full is reached (relay required). Gobius is supplied ready for 12v or 24v. 240V on request. Audible and visual alarms can also be fitted and supplied for Gobius and Gobius Plus.

To order, please phone 07 55716764, or email info@catagroup.com.au, or visit www.catagroup.com.au.

(May-Aug2017)

The post Measures From The Outside appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

KOVA Pumps are used for marine airconditioning and refrigeration cooling, deck wash, chilled water circulation lines, and boost pumps for water makers – in fact, anywhere you need to move volume of water reliably. We are currently working on fully submersible centrifugal magnetic pumps with flow rates at 500Gph and 1000Gph in AC/DC voltage.

KOVA Pumps can also be ordered with a mount deck. This will make a quiet pump quieter. The mount deck will take 100% of the vibration from the operation and make installation easier. Mounting decks can be ordered for the pump only, or with pump and strainer.

We are also suppliers of Arctic Steel full cast stainless steel strainers, the perfect strainer for KOVA Pumps, as they can be attached directly to the pump or it can be mounted separately. The flexibility is yours. Water manifolds can be supplied as well. Give us your requirements and we can supply a complete pump kit for you. KOVA Pumps come in many sizes, flow rates and voltage and are made specifically for the marine industry. When it comes to replacing any other brand or model, call us to ensure compatibility before ordering.

We ship Australia-wide.

info@catagroup.com.au

www.catagroup.com.au

Ph: 07 5571 6764

(May-Aug2017)

The post Pumps Built Tough appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

The marine environment is a tough test for paint, varnish and anti-foul coatings, and shows no mercy to poor quality products. Only the best products will keep top-sides bright and the underneath clean from fouling.

Propeller Coat, made in Japan since 1917 from one of the world’s largest and most-respected paint companies, is a non-biocidal foul release coating. With its extra slippery silicon topcoat, it prevents sea life adhering to the propeller.

Propeller Coat is designed to provide ultimate protection against the harmful effect of weed, barnacles and fouling attaching itself to boat propellers, engines and stern gear. It is a transparent silicon-based product, resulting in an ultra slippery, non-stick surface, which weed and fouling find difficult to adhere to. It is referred to as a “foul-release” coating, which means that after initial application, fouling may loosely attach, but is easily and quickly removed by the result of water movement across the treated surface, or by the action of the prop as it turns within the water.

Propeller Coat is suitable for application to all underwater metallic running gear – on stainless, alloy (complete stern legs) and bronze including; propellers, trim tabs, propeller shafts, rudders, prop struts, bow and stern thrusters, underwater lights, transducers, etc.

Propeller Coat is composed of a yellow primer and a clear silicon topcoat. The product is sold as a DIY box, complete with brushes, gloves, and instructions. It is easy to apply, once the surfaces to be painted have been prepared. It is available in three sizes – 300ml, 500ml and 1.5 Litre. (300ml is great for yachts, with a single shaft and propeller that covers an area of 0.5 m2; and 500ml is great for larger boats, and covers an area of 0.9 m2)

Oz Marine is the dealer of Propeller Coat and provides Australia-wide phone support, and covering thousands of boats in New Zealand, Australia, and Japan.

For COMMERICAL or TRADE operators, Oz Marine can supply with 3-Liter Propeller Coat kits.

For information and pricing: www.ozmarine.com.au, Ph: 07 5437 9400.

The post Foul Release Coating appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.

Hints and tips

 Check the hull occasionally for slime. It is normal for this to occur and is easily wiped off.

 It is a good thing to give the hull a wipe occasionally but not with a stiff broom or brush. Use a soft sponge or cloth. Don’t press too hard as you may remove the antifouling and shorten its life.

 If you do need to slip the boat early for any reason, like repairs to the prop or hull, ensure the boat yard gives the underwater hull a light freshwater wash to remove any slime or salt. If slime and salt are left, this will dry hard on the surface and inhibit the antifouling performance when the boat is relaunched.

 The PPG antifouling is a good choice for your antifouling, Ecofleet 290, ABC3 or Eco- fleet Alloy. It is chosen for its antifouling performance and for the support provided by the manufacturer and distributors. It is considered the best option for boat owners, so it is advisable to continue using this antifouling at all subsequent slippings.

 Check for any growth that looks like a flat, red, round disk. It will settle on antifouling and is easily removed but will cause problems if left alone. You may never see this, but it can turn up unexpectedly in any waterways around Australia; it is called watersipora.

What is “Watersipora”?

Watersipora is a fouling organism that is bright orange to red with variable amounts of black, and may be flat or foliose. Watersipora is tolerant to copper-based antifouling biocides, so it facilitates the spread of other invasives by providing a non-toxic surface. It is important to follow the above hints and tips as preventative measures. Should you spot watersipora on your vessel, simply wipe it off.

Here are some photos to help you identify watersipora.

The PPG antifouling is a good choice for your antifouling, Ecofleet 290, ABC3 or Eco-fleet Alloy. It is chosen for its antifouling performance and for the support provided by the manufacturer and distributors. It is considered the best option for boat owners, so it is advisable to continue using this antifouling at all subsequent slippings.

(May-Aug2017)

The post Antifouling Maintenance appeared first on Boat Gold Coast.