A question I get a lot when travelling overseas is: “Where in Australia should I go?” The usual answers are Melbourne and Sydney. While I mean no disrespect to the capitals or their states, I can’t help but shudder a little. When you’re comparing apples to apples, it’s hard to go past Queensland.
Australia is a big place, and most people are short on time. So I tell them: Go to Queensland. Start in Cairns and head south, or begin in Brisbane or the Gold Coast and head north.
This state isn’t just a destination; it’s a lifestyle. It’s a place you can spend a day, a week, a month, a year — or a lifetime — and still not see it all. And that’s just for the land lovers — let alone the boaties.
Much of the east coast is open water until you reach the more protected seas around the Great Barrier Reef, north of Hervey Bay. That’s where the ocean swells give way to a tighter, choppier bay swell. Sure, it can still get rough and dangerous — but really, who wants to be out in that? I’d rather be tucked away in a sheltered river or estuary until the weather calms down.
Our islands offer both protection and an abundance of marine life. The real adventure begins as you head north from Mackay, where hundreds of islands and coral cays dot the horizon, the fish life picks up, and the scenery shifts with the weather and light. The Whitsundays are a well-known spot for southerners escaping the cold winter months. And yes — it gets windy. But honestly, when isn’t it windy there?
Still, the escapism is real: turquoise waters, silica-white beaches, coconut palms, tropical resorts, and beautiful temperatures. Fishing near the islands can be hit or miss, but head further offshore and it’s a different story — an abundance of reef species waiting for your hook.
Further north, rainforest meets the sea, and the reef draws closer to the shore from Bowen up to Kurrimine Beach. There’s no shortage of rivers and creeks to duck into for protection — and plenty of welcoming riverside towns, like Innisfail. The locals are warm, but be aware: there are others in the water who like to get up close and personal too — crocodiles.
You may not see them often, but they’re there. Crocs can slow their heart rate to one beat per minute and stay underwater, silent, for over an hour — perfect for ambush. So stay croc-aware, especially the further north you go. Up there, it gets more remote — but that’s exactly the draw.
Cairns to Cooktown. Cooktown to Princess Charlotte Bay. Then on to Portland Roads, and beyond to the tip of Cape York. This stretch requires proper planning: watching the weather, fuelling stops, anchorage options. It’s wild country, largely untouched, with an aura that makes you feel like you’ve truly left the world behind.
If you don’t have a large boat, you can trailer one to the Far North. But check when the Developmental Road (north of Lakeland, near Cooktown) is due to be graded — usually twice a year. If you’re towing when it’s heavily corrugated, you’ll struggle to reach places like Portland Roads without serious damage. A more enjoyable option? Charter a liveaboard vessel and cruise the islands, reef, and northern coast for a week or two with family or friends. Let someone else handle the logistics while you relax and soak up the real Australia.
You can even charter a million-dollar boat yourself — it’s called bareboating. The Whitsundays are home to several companies that offer self-skippered yachts. After a short training session, you’re free to cruise the islands in style. Fly into Proserpine in the morning, catch the airport bus to the marina, and by late afternoon, you’ll be watching the sun set from your plush boat, rod in hand, drink nearby.
It doesn’t get much better than that.
Follow Paul on his TV show www.stepoutside.com.au
Published in print August-December 2025
